Building Castles in the Sand

A right royal place to stay

The beach is empty except for a few whirling sea gulls and a man flying a kite.  A tea coloured river meanders out of the cool natural forest and carves a gully out of the sand to meet the sea.  The only sound the crash of the sea and the tinkle of ice in my glass.

I’m on the front parapet of Craighross Castle on Noetzie beach, watching the sun gild the world in pinks and tangerines and toasting the end of a day.  I can’t quite believe I’m in a castle.  And I certainly can’t believe I’ve got a beach to myself for a sun set swim.  I’m the guest of John Loewen, owner of one of famous Noetzie Castles and one of the only castles in the area that is also a private residence.

I say guest because Craighross might look like a castle on the outside, but it’s a perfectly modern home on the inside, a home that John has now opened to short term let when he and his family aren’t using the property. In fact, the large open plan kitchen and living area and mostly tiled floors make this home more like a fantasy beach house; somewhere you can feel like a princess and still put your feet up.

The setting is really what makes the property special.  Noetzie bay is one of the hidden gems of the Cape’s Garden Route.  Tucked away behind the Knysna Heads, the tiny bay is like a secret; a place that shouldn’t be.  Despite being 10 minutes away from a major tourist route, it is virtual unspoiled.

Surrounded by conservancy protected indigenous forest, filled with yellowwoods and birdlife, and cupped by rocks studded with mussles and oysters, the beach is breathtaking.  John tells me that he’s had visits from baboons, bush buck, otters and the “pesky vervets”, warning me that the latter are likely to be opportunistic with any open windows.

The castles, which jot the shore line in amongst miners’ cottages and beach shacks, just add to the fairy tale atmosphere.

Called “the Follies” by some locals, the castles have an intriguing history. Visitors might be teased about pirates and kingly hideaways, but the buildings are actually quite “new”.  The original castle, built in the 1930s, sadly no longer stands.  It was built by Herbert Stephen Henderson VC, a Scot who fought in the Matabele wars and struck it rich mining gold.

Legend has it that Henderson built the first castle using stone from the area.  Someone noted that a few alternations would make the building look like a castle and the so the idea was born. A few years later Henderson built a second Castle, now virtually a ruin, and then a third in the 1940s, which is now owned by the neighbouring Pezula Estate.  Henderson’s older son Allan inherited the main Castle while his youngest son, Ian built Montrose Castle in the 1970s.

In 1960 Donald Lindsay, a professional big game hunter who worked with the

Hendersons, purchased a plot of land at the end of the beach and built Lindsay castle, now a B&B.  Craighross is the newest of the lot.

John tells me he first visited Noetzie in 1986, visiting the Lindsays who were old family friends.  It was “love at first sight” and in 1999 he bought a plot from the Henderson brothers, and started building.

The castle, named for his sons, has 6 bedrooms, all en-suite, including the master bedroom which occupies the entire top floor.  All the conveniences are provided, like satellite TV, high speed wireless internet and a Skype phone.  Of course, with great glass sliding doors to replace the expected narrow windows of medieval architecture and two large balconies with views of the wide, open ocean, I couldn’t spend one moment looking at a screen.

When writing to me, John’s email is filled with his passion for the bay.   “You can swim with the dolphins right off the beach and the fishing is fantastic.  We have a lagoon formed from the Noetzie River for safe and gentle swimming for the kids.  We have the best oysters and mussels along with small clams, snails, fresh fish, which we collect daily for dinner.”

But I choose the lazy life for my two days in this hidden paradise.  I get up with the sun and swim in the bracing sea before I’m even fully awake.  I read and sleep and listen to waves break. I drink wine and amble on the beach, following the footprints of birds.  And I plan my return.

Craighross:

Craighross and its guests are taken excellent care of by Jean and Allan De Souza, who also manage Lindsay Castle.

For booking enquiries:
+27 (0) 44 384 1849
+ 27 (0) 866115111 (fax)
+27 (0) 84 813 4887
www.knysnacastles.com
knysnacastles@kingsley.co.za

Visit Google Earth to view the beach and the castles at Latitude 34° 4’46.84″S and Longitude 23° 7’35.67″E. (castle 3)

Photographs by Gideon Joubert

Written for Moneyweb Life in February 09

Moseying about in Montagu

Four star and fine dining filled with small town warmth.

Bernhard and Fida Hess were living the Jozi high life when a moment of chance changed their lives.  Visiting family in the small, picturesque town of Montagu, they cast their eye over a building for sale and idly thought they could turn it into country hotel.  That idle thought turned into a business plan and the Mimosa Lodge was born.

Experienced in the restaurant and hospitality industry, Bernhard and Fida wanted to create something special in the village most well known for its mineral baths.  Bernhard, an award winning Swiss-trained chef and previous owner of Ma Cuisine in Johannesburg runs the kitchen while Fida, a former GM of the V&A Waterfront hotel, manages the day to day running of the Lodge.

Together they’ve woven together the warmth and hospitality of small town South Africa with the service and quality of the big city.  The lodge, surrounded by the Langeberg Mountains, has a strong art deco theme, filled with beautifully restored furniture and the work of local artists.  Lush gardens, both decorative and edible, surround the property, revealing a sparkling pool around one corner and a hedge of rambling, perfumed roses around another.

The rooms are spacious and comfortable with the kind of beds that are made for holiday sloth.  I didn’t mind that our room was without a TV (a welcome change, in fact) but I would have preferred a kettle on hand, rather than ringing for my morning cuppa in my nightie.  Waking up to pink mountains and the bird-filled quiet of a small town more than made up for it.

In the evenings, guests are invited to join Fida in the bar for a drink and a little conversation before dinner.  A natural hostess, Fida tells stories about the village and surrounds, shares insights into country life and brings an unexpected amity to a room full of strangers. The food is excellent, recently winning the American Express Platinum Fine Dining Award.  Bernhard’s French cuisine training is evident in the presentation and his passion for fresh ingredients.  My companion and I were just discussing how the portions were perfectly sized, when we were tempted by an evil chocolate concoction that pushed us both right over the edge.  We could, of course, have said no.  But we didn’t.

Bernhard is happy to share his secrets. Guests can enjoy a personalised cooking course, designed to give food lovers a sense of what it’s like to be part of a working kitchen.  Students participate in planning the day’s menu, then visiting the local markets and wine farms for ingredients and matching wines they will use to prepare that evening’s gourmet meal.

Often referred to as the gateway to Route 62, Montagu is a perfect base for those who want to explore the region.  The village and its surrounding mountains are filled with historic buildings, gentle walks, mountain bike trails and the famous warm baths, as well as a number of other foodie havens like Templeton’s at Four Oaks.

It’s a 15 minute drive from the Robertson Wine Valley where I couldn’t resist stopping to buy a case of my favourite Sauvignon Blanc, the Springfield Life from Stone.  It’s also worth popping into Fraai Uitzicht for lunch, not just for the delicious food, but for the sweeping views of the valley.  Sparkling wine lovers should visit Graham Beck and try their Méthode Cap Classique Brut Rosé.  Delicious.

Mimosa Lodge
Church Street, Montagu
Tel: +27 (0)23 614 2351
info@mimosa.co.za
www.mimosa.co.za

Templeton’s @ Four Oaks:
Reservations: +27 (0) 23 614 2778

Fraai Uitzicht:
Reservations: ++27 (0) 23 626 6156

Written for Moneyweb Life in December 08.

A Fynbos Disciple

A Cape Town hotel’s passion for indigenous flora creates indulgent treats for guests and visitors.

The sea glimmers and shines on my right.  The towering mountains march along the coast to my left.  The day is hot and the backs of my legs stick to the leather of the car seats.  I can taste coconut suntan lotion and cherry fizz pops.  And underneath it all, I smell the loamy green perfume of hot fynbos.

These are the childhood memories of summer, driving along Victoria Road to Llandudno beach.  It’s along this stretch of Cape Town shoreline that the 12 Apostles Hotel and Spa was controversially developed around 1995, much to the frustration of locals, who feared it would open the pristine mountain to rampant development. Named for the range that curves behind it, the Hotel takes full advantage of those elements that make my childhood memories so vivid; sun, sea and, most recently; fynbos. The restaurant, Azure, and hotel Spa have both capitalised on the over 6000 species of indigenous plants that are found on these mountains alone, just a small part of the Cape Floral kingdom.

Executive Chef Robert de Carvalho, a first generation South African with strong Portuguese roots, is still very much hands on in the 12 Apostles kitchen.  He tells me the idea for his “Cooking with Fynbos” menu came from walking the rocky heath-land of the mountain and wondering whether the fragrant local plants that grow there could be used in the hotel kitchens.  He started to investigate and experiment and subsequently worked closely with a Stellenbosch University botanist to discover which plants would work best and how to prepare them.

The result is a three course seasonal feast, featuring dishes infused with the wild flavours of some 20 fynbos varieties, all tended and harvested responsibility from the slopes of the mountain which make up the hotel’s grounds.  De Carvalho completes the local theme by ensuring that the other ingredients he uses are either local delicacies or sourced from local suppliers.  Naturally, each course is matched with local wines.

I was lucky enough to enjoy the menu at the nautically themed Azure, overlooking the Atlantic in another of its iconic states; a typical stormy winter evening.  On Chef’s suggestion, I started with the sweet potato, corn, wild garlic (Tulbughia capensis) and pepperdew fritters, served with baby marrow, mango chutney and a pineapple,  red onion and geranium (Pelargonium betulinum) salsa.  The sweet, tart salsa was a perfect match to the crunchy and delicately flavoured fritters.

For mains, I (over) indulged in the Springbok shank, wrapped in Morogo (Amaranthus hybridus) and smoked bacon served with stywepap and roasted butternut, with a wild rosemary (Eriocephalus africanus) Namaqua brandy sauce. The meal was finished with delicious Melktert Phyllo Parcels, lightly baked and served with a honeybush (Cyclopia intermedia) and buchu (Agathosma-crenata) ice cream and fresh strawberries.

What made the evening really special was the arrival of the sorbet between the first and second courses.  The palette cleansing ice was served on a platter overflowing with foaming, rolling mist, turning our table into a corner of magic.  I actually clapped my hands with delight. (I’m such a sucker for dry ice).

De Carvalho says his menu is equally popular with local and international guests, but he says the later are more inquisitive about the ingredients.  In response to numerous requests, he now hosts a cooking course for guests interested in finding, preparing and using fynbos in cooking, although this apparently needs to be arranged with the banqueting manager well in advance.

The Spa, part of The Sanctuary Group, has also included fynbos in its treatments.  Built as though carved from the mountain itself, the soothing subterranean retreat uses Moya products as one of the staples of their offer.

I was pampered with a bone-melting, full body massage using a Cape Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) based treatment, apparently known for its detoxifying and calming properties.  The massage, which included a hair mask and facial treatment, left me feeling like some kind of chilled out scented goddess.  Although I had to deal with the amusement of friends when I then headed out to dins with my heavily oiled coiffeur, unwilling to sacrifice the benefits of the oils for an early shower.

I’m most definitely a fynbos disciple.

12 Apostles Hotel & Spa
Tel: +27 (0) 21 437 9029
Azure: email azure@rchmail.co.za

The three course “Cooking with Fynbos” menu is R245 per person for excluding beverages.

The Sanctuary Spa
Tel: +27 (0)21 437 0677

Written for Moneyweb Life in October 08

The divine is in the details

Magic Majeka a Stellenbosch gem

Regular travellers know, a hotel is a hotel is a hotel.  It’s only the small details that set them apart.  The fact that the staff remember your name.  The way the chef cooks the bacon.  The art on the walls.  All these small elements conjure up a personality that can make a hotel somehow feel different.

Majeka House is one of those places.  Hidden on the outskirts of Stellenbosch, just an hour from Cape Town and right in the middle of the area’s famous winelands, this small boutique property is filled with little surprises.  Wooden floors in the showers, crystal, chrome and beaded chandeliers, Lavazza Blue espresso machines in each room and love-seats in the gardens strewn with jewel coloured cushions are just some of the things that delighted me during my stay.

Originally the home of Karine Dequecker and Lloyd van der Merwe, the couple wanted to do something special with the property and decided to turn their large grounds into a tranquil escape for travellers. The family house remains, while additional wings, cottages and a small freestanding villa have been added as part of the refurbishment.   Opened in November 2008, Majeka’s white washed buildings, green awnings and umbrella-shaded chaise lounges merge with a lush, colourful garden to create a French Provencal feeling in an intimate setting.

Both Karine and Lloyd have a background in hospitality, and are widely travelled, so combine their personal experiences with professional expertise.  Despite some real teething problems with their reservations and billing systems, they’ve created something quite special.

The individual rooms are sumptuously appointed, with crisp white linen accented by leather headboards, rich quilted bedspreads and cool terracotta tiled floors.  The good sized bathrooms have a sliding barrier set into their dividing wall so that slothful souls like me can lounge about in the bath with a glass of wine and still watch the wide-screen TV while delicious Moya products add the sent the room with Cape Geranium and Camomile.

When I compliment a piece of art in the cosy bar and library area of the hotel, Karine laughingly tells me that the family influence has definitely extended out of their home and into the hotel’s décor.  She points out pieces from her parent’s home as well as her own in amongst those bought especially for the room.  A wander around the many small boutique shops in Stellenbosch proves the origin of many of the other small décor touches throughout the hotel.

An excellent kitchen offers fine dining, while on-site facilities like a conference room for 16, wireless internet access, heated pool, steam room and sauna, as well as spa run by The Sanctuary Group mean that haven-seekers need not leave the grounds if they don’t want to.  In fact, I spotted a number of guests having breakfast in their slippers, clearly quite at home at the pool-side tables.  Of course, with the historic town of Stellenbosch and some of the Cape’s most award winning wine farms within minutes of the gates, you might still be tempted to venture out.

Majeka House:

26-32 Houtkapper Street,

Paradyskloof, Stellenbosch.

+27 (21) 880 1549

Email: reservations@majekahouse.co.za
www.majekahouse.co.za

Rates are priced from R800.00 per person per night sharing and are inclusive of breakfast.

Photographs by Gideon Joubert.

Written for Moneyweb Life in February 09.

Healthy hotel nosh

Travelling for work shouldn’t take years of your life.

Travelling for work.  Eish!  When I was younger I thought business travel was the ultimate glamour.  The hotels, room service, international jet-setting.  I imagined my be-suited self purposefully striding into waiting taxis and pinging off critical documents from a fancy laptop.

What a rude awakening.

The reality of business travel is terminal airport terminals.  Lumpy beds.  Interesting plumbing noises.  And wifi that only works when you’re balanced on one leg in the far corner of the bathroom.

Far worse is what travel does to your eating habits.  My yoghurt and fibre mornings are kyboshed by sausages and hash-browns.  Late meetings and utterly uninspiring room service mean another round of midnight toasted sarmies, washed down with whiskey.  Not good for a grown up.   When I heard that the Cape Milner Hotel in Cape Town had given its restaurant menu a health rating, I had to go and see for myself. 

Situated on the edge of town, and a close drive to most of Cape Town’s hot spots, The Cape Milner is a favourite for the film crews that descend on Cape Town each season.  Head chef, James Wamboy was apparently inspired by these “Hollywood” types to revamp his menu.  What he’s done is to give each of the special ‘terrace menu’ items a health rating from A (dieters halo) to Z (sinful decadence) which helps guests make informed choices.

I think garnish qualifies as vegetables, so I took my marathon-running mate along to test the healthy-fare theory.  The menu itself was great.  Not extensive, but a couple of good options, all rated as promised.  Not surprisingly, the one ‘z’ rating was reserved for a chocolate and cream based desert. What did surprise me, however, was that no explanation for the rating was offered on the menu itself.  I imagine that people who are health conscious enough to appreciate the rating would want to know what it was for; low fat, low cholesterol, gluten free etc?  Likewise, the normal a la carte menu didn’t include ratings at all, which was a pity.

This didn’t stop us mixing and matching a pretty good dinner.  I settled for delicious crunchy crab and prawn cakes (unrated), but my companion’s vegetable and tofu skewers (A+) stole the show.  The crisp grilled veggies and tofu, dusted with a spicy seasoning and served with two veg sushi rolls, were fantastic.

For mains, my virtuous mate had another starter, the tuna Carpaccio (unrated), which she was extremely happy with.  Sadly, my seared tuna, served with a warmed Niçoise-inspired vegetable medley (A-), was not seared at all, but rather over done, which was disappointing.

Encouraged by our healthy-ish evening we shared desert, a strawberry sorbet served with thin slices of kiwi, orange and melon.  It was fresh and light and a perfect end to our (probably C-) healthy meal.

We were well looked after by the restaurant staff and ended our dinner chatting to Craig Martin, the hotel’s Food and Beverage Manager.  A Scot by birth, he was lured to our shores by South Africans he met travelling.  He now lives here and his passion, interest in the country, and commitment to making a contribution, gave me the warm and fuzzies.  Perhaps it was the food, maybe the inspiring immigrant, but I left the Cape Milner feeling better than I had in weeks.

‘No 2 on Milner’ at The Cape Milner
021 426 1101
reserve@capemilner.com
www.capemilner.com

Written for Moneyweb Life in September 08